Madame d’Ora - Part One
Nicola McDonagh
In my new book, a crime thriller set in Vienna 1899, my protagonist, Leo Katz, is a photographer. Whilst researching photographers from that period, I was delighted to discover that women were emerging as professionals in this field.
One woman caught my attention, Dora Kallmus. She was extremely influential in changing the way people posed for their picture. Dora’s unique style helped to popularise the celebrity portrait, and her fashion photography broke all the rules. Yet, History has chosen to forget her.
Born in 1881 to a wealthy Jewish family in Vienna, Dora was clearly a headstrong young woman and knew what she wanted to do. She befriended the son of the painter Hans Makart, and whilst assisting him in his studio, she discovered the wonders of photography.
In 1905, she became the first woman allowed to study theory at the city’s Graphic Training Centre, GraphischenLehr-und Versuchsanstalt, and in the same year was accepted as a member of the Association of Austrian Photographers. Two years later she finished an apprenticeship with Nicola Perscheid, where she learned her craft.
Although she was not allowed to do the technical training, because she was a woman, that did not stop her opening her own studio in Vienna in 1907. She brought a fellow student of Nicola Pesrcheid with her, Arthur Benda, who would remain her technical assistant throughout her early career.
Her studio Atelier d’Ora, became a sensation, and along with Arthur Benda, Madame d’Ora’s shop was the place to go for the fashionable and cultural elite of Vienna. Her new approach to photographing a subject, natural, relaxed poses rather than the stiff, grim images people were used to, made her photographs sought after. The artist, Gustav Klimt and his muse
Emilie Flöge, being some of her most famous clients.
Dora’s Middle Class Jewish background aided her in attracting customers. Her father, Doctor Phillipp Kalmus, a respected lawyer, brought clients from the civil service, government, and the banking world. With such a notorious profile, Dora landed the job of photographing the coronation of Kaiser Karl, King of Hungary. Now she was in demand by royalty and members of the Imperial family who visited her studio to have their portrait taken.
But it was through her cousin, the acclaimed actress Rosa Bertens, that Dora broke into what was to become her trademark work. Photographing the rich and famous throughout the theatre, music, fashion and art worlds.
News of her avant-garde work spread, and customers flocked to her doors. Now everyone wanted to be photographed by Madame d’Ora, whose unorthodox compositions were the talk of the town. Attracting famous dancers such as Anna Pavlova, Josephine Baker, and, Mary Wigman. Writers such as Arthur Schnitzler, artists, Gustav Klimt, actors, Maurice Chevalier, musicians, Pablo Casals and the composer, Albern Berg.
Her keen interest in fashion photography inspired her to change the way the industry presented their clothes. She created new ways to portray models, and her fresh ideas were soon snapped up by many lifestyle periodicals such as Die, Madame, and Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode.
Madame d’Ora became Coco Channels first choice to capture her new creations in all of their glory. All this when she was still under thirty years of age.
In Part Two, I will focus on Dora’s later career and how she developed not only as a portrait photographer to the stars, but how the traumas of the second world war developed her career as a documentary photographer.
If you are interested in reading about more pioneering woman in the arts, you might like these posts by Ruth de Jauregui
All images taken from Pinterest
COMMENTS
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Another interesting article on
#OurAuthorGang. Thank you, Nicola, for shining a spotlight on this amazing photographer!
Nicola McDonagh shares the innovative work and career of photographer Madame d’Ora. This early photographer influenced an entire generation of photographers, with her new techniques, compositions and poses that attracted the rich and famous, movie stars and royalty.
#OurAuthorGang
What a great post! I didn't know anything about her and her career. Thank you so much for bringing her work to our attention.
And thanks for the shout-out!!
I just love learning about all these famous women that history forgot. These are the real trailblazers and role models for the young women of today. Thanks for another great piece Niki
They are great role models, aren't they?
Nicola McDonagh reminds the world of one of the first fashion photographers Madame d’Ora. That’s right a woman! Read all the details on
#OurAuthorGang
Read about a forgotten female photographer who made an impact with her new style.
#OurAuthorGang
What an amazing woman Dora was. Thanks, Nicola.
Today on
#OurAuthorGang, author Nikki McDonagh tells us about a fascinating woman named Madame d'Ora.
This is a great article, Nikki! I find all this "lost history" fascinating. There was a Natalie Kalmus (different spelling) who was a technicolor consultant in Hollywood's Golden Age. I wonder if there's a familial connection between the two women? Both women involved with "photography." Most interesting.
+Nikki McDonagh - yeah, that would have been cool to find a familial as well as professional connection.
Learn about forgotten women who were pioneers in their field with Nicola McDonagh.
Fascinating. It is so cool to read about pioneering women. Gives contemporary women big shoes to fill.
The thing is, there are tons of women today doing amazing things, but just like Dora, we never get to hear about it, because they aren't famous, or want to be. It's a shame only annoying women with fake breasts and bottoms get to be role models.
What a fascinating woman! Thanks for bringing her to light! There are so many strong, successful women through history! We have a rich heritage, for sure.
We do, Grace, it's such a shame history is written mainly by men who don't recognise such women for their achievements.
How cool is this. Such a young woman who made such an impact. I can't imagine why she isn't talked about more.
It is strange, Toi, because she was so popular and a huge celebrity.
+Nikki McDonagh Yeah. It definitely seems like she should have a better legacy.
Today, Nikki McDonagh shares the rise of a forgotten treasure, the woman who changed the world of photography.
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This was a woman who was surely ahead of her time for that era. Just imagine doing Coco Channel on a photo shoot! I've never heard of this woman until now. Thank you for brining her into the spotlight.
I'd never heard of her before I started researching. Her photographs are so beautiful and inspiring.
+Nikki McDonagh I'll say! I love photography and will surely be checking her photos out.
She was Erika, so focused and determined.
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